Well Installation Section
Missouri Geological Survey
P.O. Box 250
Rolla, MO 65402-0250
United States
Geological Survey Program
fact sheetMissouri Geological Survey
Director: Carey Bridges, RGThis fact sheet provides guidance to well owners about how to disinfect a domestic water well and distribution system. Disinfection is needed when a water sample tests positive for bacteria, the well has been impacted by floodwater, or when work on the well (e.g., a pump replacement or liner installation) has been completed. It is important to note that chlorinating a well multiple times a year causes corrosion of the casing. This can lead to pumps falling into the well and wellheads being replaced.
We recommend using a licensed well contractor to perform the disinfection procedure. However, if you must perform the procedure yourself please use the following instructions and read all cautions before proceeding.
Be careful when handling chlorine solutions. Wear rubber gloves, goggles and a protective apron. If chlorine accidentally gets on your skin, flush immediately with clean water.
For safety reasons, turn OFF the electrical power to the pump.
Turn or push the bypass valves to “bypass” or “out of service” position for all water treatment systems (water softeners, reverse osmosis systems, etc.) and any appliances that cannot tolerate bleach. These appliances may either be damaged by bleach or may remove the bleach before entering your home.
The style of the well covering dictates how to open the well. If you have a well cap, remove the cap and move the wires with connector caps to the outside so they don’t get wet in later steps. If you have well seal with a vent, remove the vent but do not remove the compression bolts for the well seal. If you have a different type of covering, contact a well contractor who holds a permit to do business in Missouri. Call 573-368-2165 for assistance.
Inspect the well for any potential problems to eliminate defects so contamination cannot enter the well. Examine the following:
If you observe spiders, spider webs or insects, this is an indication your well cap is loose and should be replaced.
The size of your system and the amount of water in your well will influence the amount of bleach needed to disinfect the well. Very few wells will need more than one gallon of bleach. Using more bleach than necessary will not disinfect the water faster, may cause corrosion of the steel casing and will hinder the disinfection effectiveness.
To calculate the amount of bleach needed, you need to know the well’s depth and static water level. Subtract the water level from the total depth to determine the amount of water in the well. If you do not know this information, using one gallon of bleach is sufficient.
Use the amount of bleach as indicated in the table below.
Amount of Water in Well |
Well Casing Diameter |
||
---|---|---|---|
|
6" |
8" |
10" |
50' |
3 cups |
3.2 cups |
4 cups |
100' |
4 cups (1 quart, ¼ gallon) |
6.5 cups |
8 cups |
200' |
8 cups (2 quarts, ½ gallon) |
12.8 cups |
1 gallon |
300' |
12 cups (3 quarts, ¾ gallon) |
1.2 gallons |
1.5 gallons |
Slowly add the bleach to the clean 5-gallon bucket containing 2-3 gallons of water.
If you have a funnel, use it to place the bleach solution in the well. If your well has a well seal, you need to use a funnel. Place the funnel in the hole where the air vent was located on the well seal. Pour the bleach solution into the well. Avoid the well casing as much as possible as the bleach will cause corrosion of steel casing.
**Caution: Bleach added to water with a pH below 5.0 will release chlorine gas which is toxic. This procedure should be done in a well-ventilated area.
Do not pour bleach directly on electrical connections or the pitless adapter (if applicable) as this can cause damage to these components.
Go to the faucet and remove the aerator, if present, to prevent it from getting clogged with loosened scale or lime. Run both hot and cold water until you smell bleach or when your chlorine test papers show 50 ppm. If you do not smell bleach or the strip tests below 50 ppm, repeat Steps 5 through 8. Turn off the faucet when you smell the bleach or the test strips shows chlorine levels are at or above 50 ppm.
Repeat this for every faucet, including showers and outdoor faucets, and flush the toilets.
Let the bleach solution sit in the pipes for at least 8 hours or overnight, if possible. Do NOT let it sit for longer than 16 hours. Chlorine is corrosive and can cause pipes to leak or burst.
Using a hose connected to an outdoor faucet, run the water in an area away from the well, septic system, landscaping and bodies of water to flush the bleach solution from the well. This may take several hours to complete. Once you no longer smell bleach or the chlorine test strips test negative, turn off the water. Drain the hot water tank(s), then run the hot and cold water faucets until you no longer smell bleach or the chlorine test strips test negative.
Repeat this for every faucet, including showers, and flush the toilets.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to disinfect any water treatment systems and appliances bypassed in Step 1. If you are unable to find disinfection instructions, contact a water treatment or appliance service provider. Bleach may damage the system or appliance and if not disinfected, you may reintroduce contamination.
Return bypass valves to the ON position after disinfecting the appliances and water treatment devices.
"Well Disinfection" adapted with permission from Minnesota Department of Health.
Nothing in this document may be used to implement any enforcement action or levy any penalty unless promulgated by rule under chapter 536 or authorized by statute.
Missouri Geological Survey
P.O. Box 250
Rolla, MO 65402-0250
United States